Patience and a lot of help

Five days Kampala, what a difference with the quiet Fort Portal. We were suppose to go together and we had already agreed that Michel would drive in Kampala. The traffic is chaotic and Heleen was not looking forward. The evening before leaving, our worries about the concrete slab for the container in Fort Portal were too big. We decided to split up. Heleen was facing a 4,5 hour drive on partly bad roads and traffic chaos in Kampala. Her tasks were, to get a -proof of existence- certificate from tax authority, transfer of the car on our name, getting the work permit, getting the container cleared by customs and to come home with a fridge, gas stove/oven and electrical switch and wiring for the house. To get this done you do not only need to know your way in Kampala , but also know how the Ugandan systems works.

The major item was the work permit, since this is key in getting the container cleared. We had delivered our papers in March to a friend, who would arrange it. But no success, even when Heleen arrived in Kampala she was told, wait till tomorrow. Finally after two days Heleen was given the papers and contacts to follow up herself. After 5 days of running up and down between tax authorities, immigration and banks. Standard procedures are long. Simple tasks normally take hours or days and to separate tasks, different departments and a bank need to be visited. Payments for government or tax fees need to be done at the bank to separate tasks. (Electronic banking is starting to be introduced, but does not fit in the system, sine you need a proof of payment on paper). Efficiency is not high on the list at organizations, with low salaries.

This means that even if you have approval for a special pass (sort of intermediate status, before the work permit is approved), it normally takes two days to pay and get it entered in your passport. Although the procedures are long and we had heard horror stories of containers not being cleared for 3 to 6 months, everybody was willing to co-operate. Heleen told everyone that she could not stay a weekend in Kampala and even government officials were cooperative. A transfer of a car normally takes 4 days, they reduced to 2 days . Approval for special pass normally 4 days, now done 1 day. Receipts at a bank for payment 3 hours, reduced to 45 min. Entry of special pass in passport 1 day, reduced to 4 hours. We know Uganda has entered the top 5 of most corrupt East African countries, but all the help Heleen received was without extra payment! It is interesting to see that in the Netherlands you have to pay for emergency procedures. When you need your passport or driving license quick, it can be arranged but you pay a lot more. Here an explanation was enough. Uganda is a great country!

After living in a empty house with a borrowed bed, a borrowed bread machine, no table, 2 chairs we are looking forward to the container. It also means we can really start to make cheese. So getting the container cleared also very high on our list. When arriving at the container Heleen was almost in tears. The locks were tampered with and many were broken. The seals of Dutch and Kenyan customs however seem to be complete. But to be sure a surveyor was called in to assess the situation. Waiting 1 hour for the surveyor before opening the container was horrible. One hour of visions of a half empty container. After cutting the seals the container was opened and the contents was untouched! Tax authorities were very co-operative and inspection of the goods was finished very quickly. It was time to go home for Heleen with the good feeling that she conquered the bureaucracy and Kampala, and had a car loaded with luxury goods.

Preparing for the container

This week we split up for the arrival of our container. Heleen went to Kampala to arrange clearance of the container (and to do a whole lot of other things) and Michel stayed in Fort Portal to supervise the construction of a simple concrete slab for the final destination of the container. We need to place the container “first time right” because there is not a crane in the vicinity of Fort Portal that can lift it, so we bring a crane from Kampala. But what about the other containers in Fort Portal, you think; well these either do not leave the truck and are emptied on site or are lifted after empting.

The construction of the concrete slab needed a bit more arranging than expected. Since the container will stand on the ground for some time we want to place it above the ground on concrete to prevent rusting. The cheese making requires the container to be place on a level surface. And taking into consideration that the ground has a slope and the rainfall can be extreme, the design of the concrete slab includes a brick wall foundation, reinforced concrete pillars and hard cores (big stones) on a cement base to support the weight of the container. A local architect that draws our ideas about the renovation of the old house made the design.

We hired a contractor, agreed on a price and just before we wanted to start on Monday the Mayor and the Town Clerk including a delegation of politicians were inspecting the road work near our plot. The Mayor saw the building materials and ordered the contractor to abort work that was not even started. Michel spend the rest of the day with the architect writing a proposal letter to the Town Clerk, including drawings of the concrete slab and discussing with the Town Clerk on how to proceed. An approval of the Structures Engineer was needed, but the man was not in town and could not be replaced. Finally the next day we got an informal approval after an on-site inspection of the Structures Engineer.

Materials like sand and the hard cores are bought in the surroundings of Fort Portal and brought by the architect who conveniently owns a small truck (he also has a driving school that is run by his wife from the same office). With the truck most materials were delivered behind the house. To reach there, the truck has to drive down a sloping driveway. The house is approximately 3 meters below road level. With every load, the nicely decorated walls of the driveway moved outwards. The truck holding the container would never be able to pass the house without collapsing the driveway. We decided that the 12 meter driveway needed to be repaired in a permanent way: remove the 1 meter top layer, put in rocks in a particular order, use iron mesh to hold the walls and finish the top layer with small grid. Meaning more truckloads of stones and grid and hiring hard working men.

Buying a house (1)

Looking for a house is not simple in Uganda. Buying a house is even more complicated. After looking around we had several options. Our favourite option is a plot walking distance from the city centre in a posh area of schools, lawyers and NGO’s. Most houses in the area have been renovated, but ‘our’ house has not been maintained for many years and is not occupied, except by some homeless people. Everything of value has been stolen from the house. Electricity wires, sockets, the electricity meter and even the cast iron lit of the septic tank. But the house has pretty outside walls and is big (17 x 11 meter), the plot around it is even large for a place so close to town (24x48 meter).

There are many reason why this house is for empty and still for sale. Not only is the place completely looted, but also a tenant was evicted (a Dutch man, which will we know well) and has claims against the owners about investments done by him and goods stolen from rooms. But the major reason of the state of the house is that the owner died 20 years ago and left behind 6 children, with 6 different mothers. In the age of 0-10 years old. Since the children were minors an uncle became caretaker of the house. To make a long story short 3 years ago the children took charge, hired a family lawyer and went to court to reposes the house. Since then the house is for sale and have had a number of offers and close deals. But the six children (influenced by family) could not agree. We did an offer on the house three weeks ago, but were warned to be very careful with the family. We checked with a Ugandan friend, the land office, their lawyer, etc. The family wanted to meet us, but only Michel was around. The real estate agent, the lawyer and our Uganda friend were not welcome and Michel meet 6 family members representing 3 children. The meeting was not successfully because the family refused to lower their price and we did not hear from them for 2,5 weeks. The rumour circuit was not silent at all. We spread the rumour we were not interested. Their family lawyer presented the family his bill for the last 3 years of his work. Suddenly the family was interested in a negotiation and we settled on the price the same day.

Normally in the Netherlands this means the deal is done and the rest is just administrative. We made another round to the officials Land office, water& electricity company, city council, the local chair person (appointed as guardian of the neighbourhood) and the former Dutch tenant. We hired our own lawyer to protect our interest. In a week’s time the family cleared the property and we transferred money from the Netherlands (which is a story on its own) to a just opened Uganda account. Friday at 8.30 all 6 children would be there to sign the agreement and to do the transfer of money.

The day went slightly different than expected. At 11.00 only 4 children were there. One would not come at all, but send the grandmother, which had not arrived yet. Another one probably on the way, but could not be reached. The original proof of ownership had to be taken from court by our and their lawyer. Finally grandma arrived. At 12.30 we were at the bank to do the transfer. As if we were not allowed to buy the property there was a power-cut and the automatic generator failed. At 14.30 finally the last child arrived signed and the bank transferred the money. Then the whole family moved to the house. We expected a handover of the keys and we even took a camera to capture this wonderful moment. But nothing goes as expected:

• 3 of the 4 locks had to be cut, because the keys could not be found.


• Suddenly the small shed on the property was not included in the sale and they wanted to take it away. And the only piece of value in the house, some kitchen cupboards was claimed by one family member. I asked if there were also planning to take the trees and the roof of the house, which they almost took seriously.


• The family is not used to bank transfers and were suddenly afraid they handed over the house without receiving the money. It took us and the bank a long talk to convince the transaction was definite, even though the money had not arrived on their bank account.

At 17.00 we came home exhausted, too tired to celebrate. The next quest is getting the house on our name. This is taken up by our lawyer.
To be continued...

House hunting (3)

After 2 months of house hunting we know which questions to ask if a house or plot is worth visiting, even though the answer is often: “You just have to see”. When Heleen came back Michel knew about a special plot 15 km out of town, but on the foot of the Ruwenzori mountains (5000 m high!). No water and electricity, but near. The site was also close to a campsite. The man travelled specially to Fort Portal and by car we went to his plot.

When we parked the car and wanted to leave he asked us if we do not have boots. This should have made all the alarm bells go off, but it was a rainy morning and we were still too polite. When we started walking on a footpath I ask innocently if the car cannot reach the plot. The owner nods and says when the area is more developed. During the walk we get explanations about all muzungu’s (whites) who have lived in the area; 2 people, and how the sometimes take a motorcycle to climb the steep hill. A future neighbour (woman with child) is following us to work up in the fields. After 30 minutes steep walking we reach the campsite. Completely out of breath Heleen asks Michel if he is serious about this place. For courtesy Heleen decides to look at the plot and politely mention this is not what we are looking for. But after another 15 minutes Heleen decides that hurting her knees is not worth the courtesy. Heleen explains we do not want to live in a place where we have to climb the mountain for 45 minutes. He says surprised:”But madam you will get used”. By the way the nearest electricity pole is 1 km, if the hospital gets connected in the future.

Michel decides to continue and after 15 more minutes he reaches the plot. The owner has two wives and lives with one wife in a mud house on this plot (called semi-permanent house). He now mentions that he would like to keep the house, but is selling the rest of the plot. The house is on the only not-completely-vertical part of the plot. The rest is too step to do anything except growing beans and potatoes. We add to the list of questions: Is the house/plot accessible by car? Anyway, the view was breathtaking, despite the damp morning we can see as far as lake Albert and lake Edward.

House hunting (2)

The house hunting resulted in moving to a different rental house on the 10th of August. Finally a house with running water. The house has three bedrooms, two showers, a real kitchen a hot water. It is a big improvement compared to where we camp now. However the new garden is only 1/3 of the current size and has no banana plantation. One of our dogs (Kito) will dislike the new place, no more hunting and chasing animals in the garden. The house also has boys quarters; separate smaller buildings in the garden. We have employed a lady named Hope, who will life there. Initially she will work half days in the household for us and when the cheese making starts, she will help with all the cleaning involved with the cheese making. The biggest advantage is that we will be able to travel since we have now someone who can take care of the dogs.

Even after moving we still will be camping. The house we rent now is fully furnished. Although I would argue if plastic plates can be considered as fully furnished. We are moving to a house without furniture. The moving will not take long, although we have now have 4 dog baskets en two dog pillows (yes we only have 3 dogs). We will borrow a bed and a bread making machine. In the mean time we have acquired 4 plates, 4 mugs, 4 glasses, cutlery, a set of pans and 2 chairs. This means we will just survive. Although we still have to find a solution for the fridge and the stove.

We have good news on the movement of the container. I has arrived in Mombasa and the transporter is expecting it in Kampala in a weeks’ time. How long customs will take is not clear. In the best case we will have our goods mid August. Worse case I do not want to think about. It means more camping.

No news good news

It has been silent from our side. Heleen has been working outside Fort Portal as tourleader. Nine Dutch tourists came for 23 days to Uganda and Gorilla trekking in Rwanda. At the start it was difficult to leave behind all the new exiting things in Fort Portal. But the very pleasant group made it easier. Also the visit to Rwanda was new to me, which was impressive. The country was very poor in the eighties and the genocide in 1994 has left the country devastated. A lot of donor money and a strong government has brought Rwanda further than most African countries today. Good roads, clean country, even plastic bags have been banned. The visit to the genocide memorial was something not to forget. The government planned the genocide a long time ahead. In 3 months time almost 15% of the population was killed.
The rest of the trip was more cheerful. Visiting the chimpanzees and gorilla’s is always a highlight. Trying to find a working television with satellite to be able to follow the world cup was a challenge. During the most important games we were in the most remote places. In the East (where we visited beautiful waterfalls) we had to travel 20 minutes to a big hotel in the next town. During the finals we were in a National Park and had to visit the staff canteen to watch the game.

In the meantime Michel was holding the Fort at home. Walking the dogs, making dog food, doing the dishes, cooking , fetching the water, doing the laundry is much more work on your own. Also the house hunting continued, which resulted in a number of good opportunities. Michel has also found a few jobs. He is repairing PC’s in two guesthouse, mainly cleaning the computers from viruses, and gives private science lessons to the son of a friend.

The internet connection is also a continuing story. We were using a dongle, but connection was very bad an maximum speed was 40 kbps. Downloading pictures or any software was a nightmare. But during one of our searches we met a technician of Uganda Telecom , who was testing the new wireless internet network. The new network is uses the wireless WiMax protocol that has a range of 5 to 8 km from the central base station. Michel did the configuration himself, since the service centre had not been trained yet. Since two weeks we are the first user in Fort Portal. When the connection is working it is very stabile at 128kbps (even with the outdoor modem attached to a stick in the house near the window at 6 km from the base station). For us this speed is acceptable, but as soon as we open up a internet cafe we will upgrade the speed. Unfortunately the network after the WiMax is down every other day, it takes some time before they discover there are real users behind it.